A Photographic Journey to the Incredibly Famous Mumbai Ganesha Pandal - Lalbaugcha Raja

Have you heard about Lalbaugcha Raja?

I am sure, most of you have. Lalbaugcha Raja, is indisputably the most iconic Ganesha in Mumbai aptly titled The King. Founded in 1934 and situated in the Lalbaug market area of lower parel, Lalbaugcha Ganesha is a massive 15 foot idol who sits royally under the umbrella of an enormous tent erected according to His stature.

Every year, during the 11 days of the Ganesh Chaturthi festival, over millions of devotees throng the place just to get a glimpse of the deity and to pay their respects. The frenzy and the hype surrounding this particular Ganesha at this particular place is overwhelmingly chaotic as it is devotional during the entire course of the festival.

Among the devotees, are people from all age groups and belonging to different stratus of society – the common man is here, so are the filmi superstars and so are people belonging to the media industry. He is the apple of everyone's eye. Apart from His human-like form, what attracts the devotees to Him is the strong belief that He shall hear their prayers and fulfil all their wishes.

There are two main lines to see the idol - you can either choose to stand in the Mukhdarshan or general line and satisfy yourself by seeing the Ganesha from a distance of about 15 feet or alternatively, you can take the line meant for making a vow to get your wish fulfilled (navas) called the navas line where you can actually get closer to Bappa and touch His gigantic feet.

I have had the fortune of visiting Lalbaugcha Raja twice in my entire life, once in 2011 and one this year, in 2015. Both the times I have stood in Mukhdarshanachi line and the waiting times have been tremendously low. Last time, it took me around 45 minutes to reach the main dais and this year, it took me only 15 minutes!! I was really happy to get such a quick easy access to this Superstar, and sharing below are some photographs I clicked during my journey...

A Photographic Essay on the LIVE Superstar God Lalbaugcha Raja, 2015, Lower Parel - Come Along!

It's 10th day of the Ganesh Chaturthi festival,
the day is Saturday, date is 26th September and the time is early morning, 7 Am:

 The morning sun is peeping fiercely from the light blue window of the skies
when I step out onto the streets from the Lower Parel Station -

My walk to the Lalbaugcha Raja Ganesh Pandal 2015 begins!

Lalbaugcha Raja is up and awake round the clock, but for many others,
the day here has just begun:

The toy seller just starting his day,

The kelewalah is on his way:

There are kids who sell,

And kids who buy,

Hope glances through from behind rimmed glasses,

eyes that look forward to an economically bright day ahead,

Sleep prances through behind weary eyelashes,

- perhaps, yesterday was a hectic day!

Life moves on ...

So do I... the cow turns her head to acknowledge my presence!

Food: Soon, the wafting smell of food makes its way to my nose.

Stalls selling breakfast like dosas, idli, poha and Mumbai's quintessential vada pav are open for the day and brimming with customers.

For a moment, I slightly shift my gaze from the streets upwards -

there is Bappa, looking at me from the billboards!

He is busy selling stuff - urging people to eat in a restaurant,
tune in to a popular radio station

and taste the new jelly chocolate in the market.

The billboards are amusing in their own way. At least one of them does ring a bell,

Don't trust rumours.

There are policemen deployed at various spots:
I see them reading newspapers, chit-chatting,

browsing through their mobile phones, or just taking a break,

Some of them are perched on building tops, taking security guard for the day,

Devoted sevaks do their job well, selling coconuts, 

lowers and green blades of grass 'durva'

to the devotees as offerings for the Lord:

They are immersed in making flower garlands for the Lord,

And then putting them out for sale,

If you are wealthy, you can opt for this one too,

A garland of rupee notes:

Joining the crowd: After around 15 minutes of walking from the Lower Parel station, I reach the main arena where the queues begin. This is my first interaction with the throng of crowds eager to get in line; I squeeze myself into the 'Mukhdarshanachi' line; am just meters away from the Raja.

A canopied tent on His head while a rainbow of colours on mine!

A few steps into the line and Ganesha is in full view.
So are the cameras - everyone wants a piece of Bappa in their lens.

Each step gets me closer and I can feel the excitement, His presence even more,

Devotion is in the air,

ONLY 15 minutes into the Mukhdarshanachi line and guess what?!

I am at The Lalbaugcha Raja Ganesha, 2015:

The madness, the devotional chaos is incredible and so is the artwork!

Glittery is my first look of Bappa’s house!

This years theme is a Bollywood set based on the classic Bollywood movie Mughal-e-azam directed by K. Asif with a giant sheesh mahal (crystal palace) involving a lot of eye-catching mirror and motif work all around. The sun adds to the magic!



The artwork is the creative work of skilled artisans from Udaipur, Jaipur and Agra who have together carved the 620-foot set using Belgian glass using concave and convex mirrors for reflection. The mirrors are placed tactfully, at a specific angle so as to reflect the Raja's image, at the same time also throwing forth the light of the elegant chandeliers hung overhead.

This incredible play of lights creates a stunning effect not only on Bappa

but also on all of Bappa's fans passing through His giant-sized figure.

So now after moving out after the darshan, what do we take back as a souvenir?

The mark of Bappa, red vermillion powder or kumkum on your forehead,

Or, a sacred protective thread on your wrist,

One of His pictures,

How about a selfie?

... Or ...

You can simply offer your heart

and, accept His love,

He is Lalbaugcha Raja,

The King of the garden where love blooms.

Traveler Tips, FAQ's and Other Information related to Lalbaugcha Raja:

• Location of Lalbaugcha Raja: Lalbaug market, GD Ambedkar Road, Lalbaug (central Mumbai).
• Nearest Railway Station to visit Lalbaugcha Raja: Around 20 minutes walking distance from Lower Parel, Curry Road, and Chinchpolki stations.
• Which mandal organizes Lalbaugcha Raja? Lalbaug Sarvajanik Ganeshostav mandal since 1934.
• How long in the darshan line for Lalbaugcha Raja? The navas line is generally the more crowded and time taken to reach the deity whilst standing here, according to the locals, can sometimes go up as high as 15 hours. The Mukhdarshanachi general line is relatively more relaxed and easy-going with waiting-time ticking up to 5 hours. Apparently, navas line takes around as long as 20 hours. I stood in the general line and it took me only 15 minutes to reach the main platform of the Ganesha, that too on a weekend.
• When to Visit Lalbaugcha Raja? It's open around the clock, for all 11 days of the festival. However, the busiest time are weekends, in the evening until midnight and early mornings.
• When will Lalbaugcha Raja 2015 start its Visarjan journey and what is the route? The procession for the immersion (visarjan) will start out at 10 AM tomorrow i.e. 27th September, the final day of the festival, from the Lalbaug market taking the following route: Lalbaug, Bharat Mata Theatre, Lalbaug, Sane Guruji Marg, Byculla Railway Station, Clare Road, Nagpada, Dunkan Road, Don Taki, Sant Sena Maharaj Marg (Kumbharwada), Suthar Gully, Madhav Baug, C.P. Tank, V.P. Road, Opera House, Girgaon Chowpatti.