Time Travel in Tulsibaug: Ancient Shree Ram Temple, Pune

Pune is not only about blooming IT companies, growing urban concrete and flashy glass structures – but a lot more about a distinct culture and unique traditions that it lovingly keeps in its heart. As a cherished treasure. Something I realized during my recent visit to the ancient Shree Ram temple in Tulsibaug…

Come, let's visit Tulsibaug.

Built by Jivajipant Khasgiwale in 18th century, Tulsibaug, with its array of shops splattered all around and a few heritage temples, is both a commercial hub as well a cultural hub - with a 'vintage' feel. At that time when it was so named, the place used to be a flourishing garden filled with the fragrance of basil. Today, however, it's a contrast... a stony mosaic, of nondescript buildings, habitual shops and half-insulated-half-naked copper wires dangling loosely – such that you could as well pass this off as any other gully from a city like say, Mathura. Not just that, the uncanny resemblance also stems from the high quotient of antiquity that whirls in its environs.

Amid the chaos of shops and buzzing people, I am struck by the tantalizing aroma of freshly cooked traditional Maharashtrian delicacy Pohe wafting in the air one minute followed by the sight of its highly acclaimed envoy Lord Ganpati greeting me from the window of a pandal (residential tent) the other.

Tulsibaug Ganpati greets the visitors in one of the lanes.

A few more miles and a small gate, in blue frame appears with a clear signpost tacked above it – it says, Shree Ram temple, Tulsibaug.

Entrance to Shree Ram temple, Tulsibaug.

Inside the gate is a narrow verandah wrapped in dilapidated structures, revealing broken wooden doors and windows both thrown open as well as closed. The verandah passes through a two storied 'Nagarkhana', which was built by Shrimant Madhavrao Peshwa after he won the battle of Kharde. The Nagarkhana is a musical complex housing a traditional musical instrument called Chaughada which comes alive with its beats on festive occasions, a tradition carried on since the times of its inception.

The Nagarkhana breathes in music on festive occasions.

Below the nagarkhana is another modestly arched doorway which opens into the spacious compound of the temple.

Tales from the Ramayana come alive through these paintings on the walls.

As soon as we step in, the 150 feet high conical shikara (spire) of the temple stands out for its grandiosity, beauty and the intricately carved figurines of saints and deities all over it.

Behold the majestic and intricately carved conical spire of the temple

The blackish tinge on the brick structure of the spire gives it – the temple is aged. A dive in history and indeed! Though the shikhara was added only in the late nineteenth century but the original structure of the temple is an ancient one dating back to the 17th century. Constructed by Shrimant Naro Appaji Tulshibaugwale a nobleman in the Peshwa court under the orders of Balaji Baji Rao, the temple is today one of the few that have managed to retain its element from the era of the Pehwas. It was good to see restoration work in progress when we visited the place. 

The temple, being restored, yet retains its charm from the era of the Pehwas.

The temple has a wooden sabhamandap (congregation hall), essentially an open space supported by withered columns and carved arches with an attractive teak ceiling decorated in ornate designs and patterns. The sabhamandap evoked a sense of peace and calm with no people around. There were a few things though – like a charpoy, bare with nails, which lay abandoned in the center and a few chalkboards reading significant dates in the Hindu calendar, which clung to the wall.

A sneak peak of the sanctum in the far distance

Sabhamandap: Footsteps echo as we walk, except that - there is no noise, total silence prevails.

The garbhagriha or the sanctum sanctorum is a stone enclosure housing deities of Lord Ram, Sita and Lakshman in the center while other deities like Lord Vishnu and Garuda sit beside them. Lord Hanuman sits exactly opposite them, not in the sanctum but in the sabhamandap with folded hands and a gaze constantly fixed at His Shree Ram.

The ornate teak ceiling

There is ample space of circumambulation provided around the mandap area where one gets a glimpse of other smaller temples dedicated to Lord Shiva, Lord Vithal-Godess Rakhumai, Lord Ganesha, Godess Parvati, Lord Dattareya but due to the restoration work that was on, we had to skip it.

Restoration work: Stones, slabs and rods lying all around the temple precincts.

If we were to literally go by the name, Tulsibaug is no 'Tulsibaug' anymore – the basil plants are nowhere to be seen and there is no garden. On the face of it - it's hard, stony but it's just a matter of time and you realize the something that is deep and buried within it...

Till the end of this life, work will keep you forever busy;
Make some time such, shower love to your Master.
'English translation of the signpost outside the temple'

Tulsibaug, for me, with its tapered lanes, bustling market and heritage temples; will always remain a fragrant memory... the place where cultural roots continue to burgeon in the garden of history and traditions.

Tips and other information for Travellers:

- Tulsibaug is located right in the middle of the city, just 10 minutes walk from the famous Dagdusheth Ganpati temple, so you can club them together and visit Tulsibaug just after paying reverence at Dagdusheth.

- Since Tulsibaug is spread in a vast area, keep around 30 - 45 minutes in hand to explore the place.

- A little off from Tulsibaug is Mahatma Phule Mandai, the biggest vegetable market in Pune.

Previous Posts from Pune:

A Weekend Getaway to Pune (via the Mumbai-Pune Expressway)

Pune: Where to stay in a budget hotel with family?

Ancient Temples in Pune: Dagdusheth Ganpati Temple